Kathmandu Travel Diary - Temples, Chaos & Royal Stories

Our Nepal trip started and ended in Kathmandu, and in just two days, the city gave us everything - from spiritual highs to royal stories, peaceful stupas to crowded alleys.

The moment we landed, Kathmandu felt familiar - a bit like home. The chaotic roads, honking, street vendors, and buzzing markets reminded us of many Indian cities.
But beneath the noise, we found layers of history, culture, and calm that made the experience special.

We stayed for 2 nights and planned our time around a mix of temples, heritage sites, and iconic landmarks. The city can feel overwhelming at first, but once we slowed down, we began to enjoy its rhythm.

For travel within the city, we mostly used the Pathao app - a local ride-sharing service that worked well for short rides.

“Durbar” means palace, and in Nepal, Durbar Squares are royal palace complexes where kings once ruled and ceremonies were held.
There are three main ones in the Kathmandu Valley - Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur - each a UNESCO World Heritage Site, each with its own charm.

These squares are filled with centuries-old temples, courtyards, and royal architecture, and walking through them feels like entering a living museum. But what made them truly special for us were the local guides we hired at each one - they didn’t just show us buildings, they told us stories.

👑 The Durbar Squares - Where Nepal’s History Lives On

🏛️ Kathmandu Durbar Square

The most central and crowded of the three, but also the one where we witnessed something truly rare.
We got to see the Living Goddess, Kumari, make a brief appearance from her window.
It’s a tradition that still lives on, and seeing it in person was a surreal and beautiful moment.
The square itself was busy, but filled with incredible woodwork, temples, and old-world energy.

🏯 Bhaktapur Durbar Square

This was our personal favourite. The square is beautifully preserved, less crowded, and has a calm local vibe.
We tried the famous Juju Dhau (King Curd) - creamy, sweet, and worth the hype - and also saw locations where the Bollywood film Gharwali Baharwali was shot.
The town has a slower pace, with cobbled streets, pottery shops, and locals just going about their day.

🏰 Patan Durbar Square

Patan is known for its stone architecture and metal craftsmanship, and it really shows.
We loved how the temples and palace buildings had a distinct style here.
One story our guide shared stood out - a king once built a golden water spout as a gift to his people. That mix of history and generosity made it memorable.
There’s a lot to explore here - museums, workshops, and cafés tucked between the monuments.

We left with dozens of stories - some we heard, some we lived.
But trust us, if there’s one thing you must do in Kathmandu, it’s to explore these Durbar Squares with a local guide.

Beyond the Durbar Squares, Kathmandu has a spiritual side that’s both intense and peaceful - with temples that stir emotion, stupas that calm the mind, and local markets that bring it all to life.

🛕 Temples, Stupas & Local Vibes - Exploring the Soul of Kathmandu

🕉️ Pashupatinath Temple

One of the holiest Shiva temples in the world, Pashupatinath offers a raw, spiritual experience.
You’ll find sadhus, chanting, and riverside cremations happening in real-time - something that can feel overwhelming but also grounding.
Photography is restricted, and it’s best visited with quiet respect rather than tourist energy.

🛕 Boudhanath Stupa

This massive Tibetan stupa is surrounded by prayer wheels, monasteries, and calm energy.
We walked the full circle around the stupa (known as a kora), watching monks, locals, and travelers all moving in rhythm.
There are several rooftop cafés around - a perfect place to sit, sip, and soak in the peace.

🐒 Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple)

Perched on a hilltop, this iconic stupa offers some of the best views of Kathmandu city.
It’s a short but steep climb with colorful prayer flags and temples along the way.
The only catch? The monkeys. Lots of them. They’re cute but sneaky - so keep snacks and shiny objects well hidden.

🌿 Garden of Dreams

We had high hopes, but this one turned out to be a letdown.
With an entry fee of 350 NPR, it felt more like a regular city park - not really worth it for tourists.
Some locals use it as a quiet space to read or relax, but if you’re short on time, you can skip this without missing anything major.

🛍️ Thamel Market

Thamel is Kathmandu’s busiest tourist zone, packed with shops, cafes, and color.
It’s great for picking up souvenirs, trying local snacks, or getting trekking gear.
Yes, it’s crowded and a bit touristy, but it’s also where the city feels most alive - especially in the evenings.

We used only one thing to get around in Kathmandu - Pathao, a local ride-sharing app similar to Uber.

We actually got to know about it from a local friend after getting overcharged by a taxi from the airport to our hotel. We had also inquired about day tour cabs, but the rates were way too high for short distances.

After that, Pathao became our go-to for everything - temples, markets, even local food spots. It was quick, easy, and saved us a lot of money.

Another cheaper option is local buses - but they’re slow and confusing, so we skipped those.

🚖 How We Got Around - Pathao to the Rescue

• 📱 Download Pathao before arriving - it’s the best way to move around the city.

• 🧑‍🏫 Hire local guides at all three Durbar Squares - the stories make the place come alive.

• 🕘 Start your day early - it helps avoid both crowds and harsh sunlight.

• 🥾 Comfortable footwear is a must - there's a lot of walking to explore places.

• ❌ Skip Garden of Dreams if you’re short on time - entry is expensive and the experience isn’t worth it.

💡 Tips for Exploring Kathmandu

Kathmandu isn’t about perfect streets or quiet corners - it’s about culture, contrast, and character.
It’s where you can watch ancient rituals in the morning and get lost in a noisy market by evening. It’s loud, spiritual, raw, and unforgettable.

From catching a glimpse of the Living Goddess, walking around stupas, to sipping chai in the chaos - Kathmandu gave us moments we’ll always remember.

✍️ Final Thoughts

Come with an open mind, take it slow, and Kathmandu will surprise you in the best ways.